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Down an alley on the left just past Appetite Restaurant.  Sandwiched between Hotel Karlo Kastle and Hotel Prince Palace Deluxe, 2 slightly lesser clones whose rooms are at least Rs100 - Rs150 less, this hotel has a bit more panache with an open lobby, mixed marble interior, and elevator.  Super-tidy rooms have attached bath and TV; some even have fridges and balconies.  24 hour, rooftop restaurant.
Singles Rs250 - Rs500; doubles Rs450 - Rs850.
Tel:  23 - 58 - 88 - 73

HOTEL KARLO KASTLE, Gali Thanedar Wali.
Next to Hotel Prince Palace.  Relaxed and clean with marble-lined hallways.  Spacious rooms with attached bath and TV.  Rooftop restaurant.
Singles Rs250 - Rs500; doubles Rs300 - Rs550.
Tel:  23 - 58 - 28 - 21

YES PLEASE GUEST HOUSE, From Main Bazaar.
Turn left down the alley for Ajay Guest House and take a left after Hare Rama Guest House; Yes Please is on the right.  Newly remodeled, clean, comfortable rooms with effective A/C are a great value.  Not to be confused with Hotel Yes Please.
Singles Rs160 - Rs170; doubles Rs200 - Rs300.
Tel:  23 - 58 - 86 - 88

HOTEL SHELTON, Main Bazaar.
On the left after 6 Tooti Chowk.  This 5-storey hotel has perhaps one of the biggest and brightest signs in Delhi, visible from the railway station.  Provides clean towel and soap as well as tidy rooms with spotless, tiled bathrooms.
Singles Rs250 - Rs500; doubles Rs300 - Rs550.
Tel:  23 - 58 - 05 - 75

HOTEL NAMASKAR, Chandiwalan.
Down an alley 300m on the right, off Main Bazaar.  Turn before Camran lodge.  Basic rooms with sparkling clean bathrooms set back from the Main Bazaar hubbub.  Helpful staff.
Singles and doubles Rs200 - Rs450.
Tel:  23 - 58 - 22 - 33
HOTEL VISHAL, Main Bazaar.
West end, after Hare Krishna Guest House.  More mellow than other backpacker hangouts.  Bathrooms cleaner than the bedrooms.  Great rooftop for relaxation.
Singles Rs150 - Rs400; doubles Rs200 - Rs400.
Tel:  23 - 56 - 21 - 23

CONNAUGHT PLACE
Connaught Place is less chaotic Paharganj, though some travellers might find it too quiet, especially at night.

H.K. CHOUDHARY GUESTHOUSE, H-35/3, H-block, Middle Circle.
Excellent service.  Rooms are exceptionally clean and nicely decorated.  Follow the tree growing through the building to the rooftop terrace.  Discounted rates for longer stays.
Singles Rs450 - Rs550; doubles Rs500 - Rs770.
Tel:  23 - 32 - 20 - 43

HOTEL PALACE HEIGHTS, Radial Rd. 6, D-block, on the top floor.
High above the streets, this hotel's rooms are a bit drab, but the wide, breezy terrace provides a welcome break from the bustling city below.
Singles Rs300 - Rs475; doubles Rs350 - Rs735.
Tel:  23 - 41 - 54 - 19

SUNNY GUEST HOUSE, Scindia House, Connaught Ln.
Off Janpath beyond Connaught Circus.  Standard backpackers grotto.  Doem room is like a military barracks, but more spacious than Ringo's.  Basic rooms face a pleasant central courtyard.
Dorms Rs90; singles Rs125 - Rs170; doubles Rs250 - Rs400.
Tel:  23 - 31 - 29 - 09

RINGO GUEST HOUSE, Scindia House.
Near Sunny Guest House.  A little hideaway above the waves of cars and people.  Staggeringly popular backpackers' retreat is overcrowded and overpriced, but has a pleasant garden area and a relaxed atmosphere.
Dorms Rs90; singles Rs150; doubles Rs250 - Rs400.
Tel:  23 - 31 - 06 - 05

OLD DELHI
This is the chicken-squawking, dung-slathered real thing.  While prices are cheaper and people are less likely to try to cheat you, it can be hard to find anyone who speaks English.  Western women should exercise caution.  Stereotypes about foreigners - Western women in particular - are stronger here than elsewhere in the city.  Many men will assume that solo female travellers are willing to give sexual favors, so women should avoid dressing provocatively or going out alone after dark.

HOTEL NEW CITY PALACE
West of the Jama Masjid.  Excellent views of the mosque.  Clean rooms have attached baths with seat toilets and balconies with rooftop access.  Check-out 24 hours.
Singles with bath Rs200; doubles Rs250 - Rs650.
Tel:  23 - 27 - 95 - 48  or  23 - 25 - 58 - 20

HOTEL AMBAR, Katra Banyan.
South of Fatehpuri Corner.  A sun-lit foyer with purple tile walls provides a nice introduction to colorful, air-cooled rooms with comfortable beds.
Doubles Rs325.
Tel:  23 - 96 - 50 - 81  or  23 - 92 - 56 - 92

VAISHNAW HOTEL
North of Fatehpuri Corner.  Look for the bright yellow sign.  Four floors of recently renovated, spacious rooms off a garden courtyard.  Check-out 24 hours.
Singles Rs150 - Rs350.
Tel:  23 - 97 - 89 - 25  or  23 - 96 - 03 - 54

KHUSH-DIL HOTEL, Chandni Chowk.
At the west end, just south of the mosque on Fatehpuri Corner.  Small rooms with narrow beds and good views of the hectic street below.  Check-out 24 hours.
Singles with common bath Rs100; doubles Rs150 - Rs200.
Tel:  23 - 95 - 21 - 10

FOOD
It's worth shelling out a little cash for some of Delhi's fantastic meals.  There are restaurants in every price range:  Western-style fast food, decent Chinese and Middle Eastern cuisine, a couple of Mexican restaurants, and of course, excellent Indian food.  For a real splurge  (up to Rs300 - Rs400 per entree), head to one of the five-star hotels, such as the Maurya Sheraton or the Ashok Frontier.

PAHARGANJ
This backpackers' district has developed several hot spots for hanging out; most of them are five stories up.  None of these places serves exceptional food, but the rooftops are the place to find Paharganj's backpack-rats sipping tea and slurping curd after hours.  It's best to get off the Main Bazaar for food - most of the main strip's restaurants cater to the jaded palates and fragile digestive systems of backpackers.  Wander the streets north of Paharganj to see where the locals are eating.

MALHOTRA RESTAURANT, 1833 Lakshmi Narayan St.
Walk to the west end of Main Bazaar, turn right on Rajguru Rd. at the Metropolis, then take the first left.  A simple place packed with a mix of locals and tourists.  Quick, efficient service and good Indian and Chinese food from Rs25.  Best deal on the block - succulent, full-sized tandoori baby chicken Rs65.  A/C comfort upstairs.
Open:  daily 11am - 11pm.

LEEMA RESTAURANT, Main Bazaar.
Next to the Hotel Vivek.  Perhaps the best budget-hotel restaurant in Paharganj.  Clean bright interior, A/C, attentive staff, and scrumptious vegetable thalis with all the fixings Rs60.
Open:  daily 7:30am - 11pm.

GOLDEN CAFE, Nehru Bazaar.
From Main Bazaar turn left at 6 Tooti Chowk and walk 100m; it's on the left.  Small joint with window front seating specializing in East Asian cuisine.  Enjoy watching the vegetable market over Vegetable Manchurian  (Rs25) or  "Om Rice"  (Rs25).
Open:  daily 8am - 11pm.

KHOSLA CAFE, Main Bazaar.
On the left 30m before Rajguru Rd.  Start the morning with tasty fruit curd  (Rs20).  Shaded outdoor seating is pleasant for people-watching.

AJAY CAFE GERMAN BAKERY, Main Bazaar.
Inside Ajay Guest House opposite Hare Rama come early for cinnamon rolls  (Rs15) fresh out of the oven.

METROPOLIS RESTAURANT & BAR
At the west end of Main Bazaar, in Metropolis Tourist Home.  Sit-down dining with A/C, full bar, and dim lighting.  Large selection of Chinese, Indian, and continental dishes. "Le Steak Minute Diane" (Rs200) is served with vegetables.
Open:  daily 8am - 11pm.

CONNAUGHT PLACE
Catering to the elite, restaurants in Connaught Place serve Indian and International cuisine several times better than the usual fare served down the road in backpackers' paradise.  Dishes are priced accordingly.

EMBASSY RESTAURANT, D-block.
Semi-formal dining, attentive service, and fine Indian and continental food at  "oh-why-not" prices.  Try the Mutton Chop Masala  (Rs142), patties of minced meat marinated with fresh herbs cooked in thick almond and cream gravy.
Open:  daily 10am - 11pm.
Tel:  23 - 41 - 51 - 63

RODEO, A-block.
Near the AmEx office.  Step into a saloon and get a taste of the Wild West lassoed into the New Delhi East.  Cowboy-Indian waiters shoot up an array of cocktails, beer, and rather authentic Tex-Mex food.  Nachos Rs60 - Rs160, chicken enchiladas Rs275.  Happy Hour 3:30pm - 7:30pm, 50% off selected beverages.
Open:  daily noon - midnight.

NIRULA'S, L-block.
Huge multi-restaurant the size of a multi-storey car garage to accommodate any taste or budget.  Head to 21 Ice Creams to try Indian flavors like Zafrani Badaam Pista, 21 Love, and Delhi Delight  (Rs29 per scoop). 
Hit the family eatery Potpourri upstairs 
Open:  daily 7am - midnight).
Step into oriental decadence at the Chinese room for scrumptious stir-fry. 
Open:  daily 12:30pm - 4pm and 7pm - 11pm. 
For food on the go, try Hot Shoppe's SubZ burger  (Rs10).  Open daily 11am - 11pm. 
The Pastry shop has a 50% discount on bread after 8pm.
Open:   9am - 10pm.

PARIKRAMA, 22 Kasturba Gandhi Marg.
Delhi's revolving 24th fl. restaurant takes 1.5 hours to go round, and you probably won't want to finish in less.  Amazing, labeled views are complimented by delicious but expensive Indian and Chinese entrees  (Rs150 - Rs410).  Beer Rs125.  A feast for your eyes and your stomach.
Open:  daily noon - 11:30pm.

HOTEL SARAVANA BHAVAN, 46 Janpath.
Just before Tolstoy Marg.  This popular chain restaurant originating from Tamil Nadu serves 2 ft. dosas  (Rs30), South Indian thalis on a banana leaf  (Rs60), and fresh blended juices  (Rs20 - Rs45).  Always packed but has comfortable seating.
Open:  daily 8am - 11pm.

WENGER & CO.  PASTRY SHOP, A-block, Inner Circle.
Next to the AmEx office.  Gourmet take-out bakery patisserie  (most Rs22).
Open:  daily 10:30am - 8pm.

UNITED COFFEE HOUSE, E-block.
Victorian-Era flashback with high ceilings, ornately carved walls, crystal chandeliers, and plush vinyl seats.  Vegetable and non-vegetable dishes Rs75 - Rs295.  Coffee with ice cream Rs52.
Open:  daily 9:30am - 11:30pm.  Last order at 11:30pm.

OLD DELHI
Old Delhi offers everything form dal bhat to pizza, although most of  the restaurants here are frequented only by locals.

KARIM
In a small courtyard off Matya Mahal, about 8 shops down from the Jama Masjid  (not visible from the road).  One of the city's most popular and famous restaurants, Karim has been run by descendants of the cooks of Mughal royalty since 1913.  Menu full of rich, meaty meals.  Half dishes  (at half-price) fit the bill for the budget traveller.  Half chicken biryani Rs75, full mutton stew Rs90.
Open:  daily 7am - midnight.

MOTI MAHAL RESTAURANT, Netaji Subhash Marg.
Delicious tandoori cuisine served in an air-conditioned dining room with sparkling chandeliers.  Kebabs from Rs105, vegetable curries Rs50 - Rs90.  Live music some nights 8pm - midnight.
Open:  daily 11am - midnight.

RINKEY RESTAURANT, Bara Bazaar.
From the Kashmiri Gate ISBT, turn left on Lothian Rd. and then right on Bara Bazaar.  One of the few sit-down places near the bus station.  Lots of choices.  Fresh pizza rs70, onion uttappam Rs30.
Open:  daily 9:30 - 9:30pm.

NEW DELHI
Many of Delhi's newest and best eating options hide in the south, at the posh arcades of Defense Colony Market and greater Kailash, away from tourist centers.  These hip, popular, and sometimes affordable restaurants make a great night out or a well-deserved break after touring.

SAGAR, 18 Defense Colony Market.
Winner of the  "Times Food Award"  for Best South Indian Restaurant in Delhi.  Lightning-quick service brings tasty thalis  (Rs45), idii vadas  (Rs26), uttappams  (Rs30 - Rs45), and 30 different flavors of meal-capping ice cream.  North Indian and Chinese branch a few doors down.
Open:  daily 8am - 11pm.

THE YELLOW BRICK ROAD, Ambassador Hotel, Sujan Singh Park.
Near Khan Market, 1km south of India Gate.  Follow the yellow brick road and take your taste buds to new heights.  Listed as one of New Delhi's  "Top 20 Restaurants," this festive coffee shop with a garden patio prepares excellent dishes ranging from the mouth-tingling Bangkok vegetable curry  (Rs280) to extra virgin pasta  (Rs285).  Leave room for the infamous  "Bull's Eye"  dessert  (Rs145).
Open:  daily 6am - 4am.

MUSEUMS

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